Sophisticated Finishes are easy to apply on any paintable
surface- indoors or out. They clean up quickly and easily
Click Below For Step-By-Step Directions on :
• What you need to get
• How to prepare your surface
a Beautiful Patina
with a Primer & Clear Sealer
Please click below for a sample of the Metallics & Patinas on:
Canvas - Unfinished, Gold w/ Patina Green & Blue, Gold
Unfinished, Rich Gold w/ Patina Green, Rich Gold
Glass - Unfinished, Blonde Bronze w/ Patina Green, Blonde Bronze
Metal - Unfinished, Blackened Bronze w/ Patina Blue, Blackened Bronze
Paper - Unfinished, Platinum w/ Patina Green, Platinum
Unfinished, Copper w/ Patina Green, Copper
Plastic - Unfinished, Stat. Green Bronze w/ Patina Blue, Stat. Green Bronze
Unfinished, Iron w/Rust, Iron
Unfinished, Copper, Copper w/ Patina Green & Blue
||What you need to get started:
- We strongly recommend testing before applying our
finishes to any valuable object or when applying over
a large surface for the first time.
- Always pour a small amount of the Metallic Surfacer
or Antiquing Solutions into a separate container and
dip your brush into this container to prevent contamination.
Never dip your brush directly into the product bottle.
Never pour unused material back into the bottle. If
the Metallic Surfacer becomes contaminated it can
quickly oxidize in the bottle or can.
- Try a variety of applicators such as brushes, rags,
sponges, and sprayers to achieve desired look.
- Apply multiple Metallic Surfacers on one object
for a beautiful tonal variation.
- Experiment with a variety of materials—plaster,
cloth, paper, concrete, wood, wicker, glass—any
||How to Prepare your Surface
- 1. Determine the type of primer required to prepare
the surface you’re working with for the Metallic
Surfacer. Our Primer and Clear Sealer is a 100% acrylic
sealer and works well on most surfaces from porous
to slick. It is not, however,
a rust inhibitive primer and will not prevent the
appearance of rust on iron or steel surfaces. If you
choose to use a solvent based primer be sure to let
the primer fully cure for 24 to 48 hours as the vapors
a curing solvent based primer give off will eat through
the acrylic binder in our Metallic Surfacers.
|If the surface is:
||Cement, Plaster, Unpainted Wood
suggested: Priming will reduce
the consumption of the Metallic Surfacer but
the paint will adhere quite well to these materials
|Glossy / Slick
||Plastic, Baked Enamel, Glass,
necessary: for some high gloss
surfaces special primers or roughing of the
surface with sandpaper may be required.
||Copper, Brass, Bronze, Aluminum
highly suggested: and for aluminum
and galvanized metal special primers may be
necessary. Typically aluminum and galvanized
metal require a self-etching primer to cut through
the slick surface for satisfactory adhesion.
||If you intend to treat the Metallic
Surfacer you apply to Iron or Steel with one
of the Antiquing Solutions you must prime the
Iron and Steel surfaces with a high quality
rust inhibiting primer to prevent rust from
erupting up through the paint. Pay close attention
to weld joints. When using a solvent or spray
can rust primer allow the primer to cure for
a full 24 to 48 hours before applying the Metallic
- Thoroughly clean surface. Surfaces must be free
of loose material, dirt, oil and grease.
- Apply appropriate primer. Allow primer coat to allow
to fully dry overnight. Do not use outdoors if freezing
or wet weather is expected within 48 hours.
||Applying Metallic Surfacers:
- Prepare surfaces following the directions above.
- Shake or stir product before applying to ensure
metal particles are well distributed.
- Apply first coat. Allow to air dry. 30 to 60 minutes
under typical situations.
- Apply additional coats as necessary to achieve
desired results. (Most surfaces will require two coats
for optimal results.)
- If you are planning to use with the Patina Antiquing
Solution, read application directions below. It is
important to apply the antiquing solution to the Metallic
Surfacer before the final coat fully dries. (except
for the Iron Metallic Surfacer)
- If applying outdoors, do not use if freezing or
wet weather is expected within 48 hours.
- Clean up with water.
Note: Certain Metallic Surfacers work best with particular
Patina Antiquing Solutions. Check our Reactivity
Chart for suggestions.
||Create a Beautiful Patina:
Create a Beautiful
Patina on Copper, Gold or Bronze Metallic Surfacers
- Check our Reactivity
Chart to ensure the Metallic Surfacer will react
with Patina Antiquing Solution.
- Apply over Metallic Surfacers when the second (or
final) coat of Surfacer is still tacky, generally
within 3-15 minutes of application.
- For a deep, colorful patina, apply a heavy first
- For a lighter finish or if you are uncertain how
much patina you want, apply a light first coat, allow
to oxidize for a few hours, then apply a second coat.
- If overnight little or no patina has developed,
then the Metallic Surfacer was too dry when the Patina
Antiquing Solution was applied. To reapply, clean
the surface by lightly buffing or sanding the surface
clean and begin the process again by applying a new
coat of metallic surfacer applying the patina solution
- Generally apply the patina solution within 3-15
minutes of the last application of Metallic Surfacer.
- Consider environmental factors such as surface temperature,
air temperature, humidity and air circulation when
deciding how much time to allow between the Metallic
Surfacer and the Patina Antiquing Solution.
- For a more dramatic and brighter patina, apply the
Patina Antiquing Solution while the Metallic Surfacer
is still very tacky (3-5 minutes).
- The Patina Antiquing solutions are very forgiving.
If you have more patina than desired, simply reapply
1-2 thin coats of the Metallic Surfacer to absorb
and mute the patina colors. Do not put your paint
brush into your main source of paint while doing this
as you risk triggering the oxidation of all your paint.
- We recommend using a clear sealer when the piece
is exposed to water or comes in contact with people
or clothing as the patina can flake or run off staining
- Blackened Bronze reacts best with Patina Blue. Create
beautiful aqua blue colors by applying the Patina
Blue immediately after your final wet coat of Blackened
Bronze. If you try to use Patina Green on Blackened
Bronze you will not get a green patina color, but
instead will have a grey washed color effect.
Create a Beautiful Patina on Genuine Copper,
Gold or Bronze Metal
- Clean metal surface of loose debris, dirt, grease,
oil, paint, lacquer or varnish. Many copper objects
in particular are coated with lacquer to prevent any
patina development, this can usually be removed with
paint remover and/or steel wool. Some objects have
a baked on clear finish that is virtually impossible
to remove. If your “old” copper, brass
or bronze metal is nice and shiny that is usually
an indication that some sort of protective coating
is on the surface.
- Lightly buff the metal to scuff the surface. 0000
Steel Wool dipped in a mild TSP Solution and then
rinsing the surface with clean water works well for
removing most dirt and grease.
- Test a small, discreet area before applying to
- If using Patina Blue directly on copper, brass or
bronze, water down the solution by 40%.
- Patina Green should not need to be watered down
for direct use on copper, brass or bronze but if you
get a brown or black patina or if the green patina
that develops flakes off in large chunks try adding
water to reduce the strength. You may dilute to 50%
of full strength.
- Apply several light coats or one heavier coat.
- Allow the oxidation to work its magic. It can take
up to 3 days for the full patina color to develop.
Create Rust on Genuine Iron or Steel
- Clean surface of loose debris, dirt, grease, oil,
paint, lacquer or varnish. Mill scale on iron is always
a concern and must be removed.
- To produce deeper rust, lightly sand the metal
to scuff the surface.
- Apply a light coat of Rust Antiquing Solution.
- Apply additional coats until you achieve the desired
||Sealing the Surface with
our Primer and Clear Sealer:
is no reason to seal a patina or rust finish. Even in
outdoor use the final finish seldom washes completely
off and is generally considered ‘weatherproof”.
Using a sealer on a Patina or Rust finish will affect
its texture and color. Still, under certain circumstances,
sealing is the best way to protect your work. The Patina
or Rust finish you achieve using the Antiquing Solutions
is the same as that produced in nature. They may stain
surfaces that receive water run off from the rain. Sealing
will help prevent the finish from bleeding or flaking
when it comes into contact with water, skin or clothing.
If you decide to seal, allow the Patina or Rust finish
to fully mature over 3 days before applying a coat of
Sophisticated Finishes Primer and Clear Sealer or any
other primer. Any high quality acrylic primer will work
fine or you may use a high quality solvent-based sealer.
Do not use a urethane-based sealer as the salts and
acids in the patina and rust surface will cloud and
eat through urethanes.
All sealers will alter the appearance to some extent
and you should always test before sealing a project.
All sealers will instruct you to make sure the surface
is free of all dust, dirt and loose material before
sealing. A patina or rust finish by definition is a
loose and unstable surface. Sealing such a surface is
thus never going to be totally effective. For a more
lasting and total solution you may wish to test a high
quality two-part epoxy sealer. These sealers are not
as dependent on having a stable surface as other sealers
and have proved the most successful at totally protecting
nearby surfaces from drip staining. A two-part epoxy
sealer is also the longest lasting and most durable
sealer for high contact applications such as door handles
or kick plates.